My next mission.

[burzumaske20]

Ok my next mission is the 2.4 intake manifold this week to order.I have a completed exhaust system,catless downpipe,longtube header,and the K&N air intake system.I know people will say you need a tune.Yes I will get the tune soon,I am just doing one piece a at a time,and I will be one of the few faster 2.2 cobalts in Illinois.

[XenSS06]

Pics Pics go to the Build Area and Create a Thread.

[burzumaske20]

So I take it there are no how to do 2.4 manifold set up pictures?

[Tenyearsbeohbe]

Originally Posted by burzumaske20

So I take it there are no how to do 2.4 manifold set up pictures?

You can find these instructions on ced.com with the kit...

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/2.4IMI.pdf

[07cobalt19]

lol nice i ordered mine on monday. gl wit urs pics when ur done

[Maven]

Heres pics and a lil howto help:

The parts youll need, the 2.4 manifold, crankcase passage seal(seal with metal insert), throttle body gasket, and a power brake booster hose solution. I chose to purchase the 2.4's hose, all you need to do is lengthen yours. Make sure your intake has the insert thats highlighted here, it supports the TB gasket. My first intake didnt have it, so I had to order another intake(this piece isnt avail seperately

Required tools: torque wrench capable of 10nM or 89inlbs. (ignore the Loctite, it isnt needed) a 10mm socket. A universal one like this is best, but a plain socket and a u-joint will work, and you can make do without the universal at all if need be. an extension for your socket(approx 6" is easiest to use). ratchet for your extension/socket(note I am using 1/4" drive, thats all thats needed) a medium-small straight blade screwdriver, a 10mm wrench, ratcheting box as pictured is prefered, as it makes job easier, but you can use a plain wrench too. A tool to remove wire retainers from intake(your screwdriver or a pair of pliers would work too Not shown is a way to enlarge MAP hole, a file, 1/2" sanding barrel, or 15/32" drill bit is what is needed.(you need to enlarge hole to slightly larger than .465" so your MAP sensor fits.

This is what the stock manifold/throttle body bolt positions look like. I have the GMPP induction kit.

The first step is to disconnect your battery, just like any time you need to disconnect harnesses on the car or work near starter.
Then with your stright screwdriver remove your intake tube.(note, I chose not to remove the entire assembly, just the throttlbody coupler, this is simply technician habit, its actually easier to remove entire induction setup to get room to work/see) Then with your retainer remover of choice, go about removing the push-in retainers that hold the harness to the manifold. They run down the passenger side of the manifold and down to the center. When you have them all disconnect youll be able to lift the harness out of the way and it will look something like this:

Now you can remove the lock(grey part) from the TB connector by sliding it away from TB and disconnect the TB harness from the TB. Use your 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding TB on. (you can discard the 2.2 TB gasket)Place it aside where it wont get dirty or nicked. Now youve got as clear access to the oil dipstick/AC hose brakcet as youre gonna get, using your 10mm wrench, or ratchet remove the one bolt highlighted here.(its about an inch long)

Now is where the universal socket comes in handy. Remove the MAP sensor connector from sensor by pushing down on tab, then with yoursocket on the extension remove the bolt that secures the sensor by accessing it from in between the fuel rail and valve cover. A magnet, needle pliers or skinny pliers will be needed to retrieve the bolt. Lift up on the sensor and remove it, placing it safely with the TB, be careful not to get dirt in the orifice.

Now you need to remove the EVAP purge line from the manifold. This is the black plastic hose that connect on top of manifold near TB, it uses a unique quick release that is very easy to disengage, but also very easy to break if you force it. There is a little nub that you lift up(away from manifold) on and then slide to the side, motion highlighted below.

Now you need to turn your attention to the brake hose. Reach in through all the hoses and harnesses on the drivers side til you reach the power brake booster. pull the hose out of booster(its going to hiss) Once the hose is released from booster you need to look for the manifold connection, its on lower drivers side of manifold, partially obscured from view by oil filter housing. When you can see the connection youll see a white tab, this is the lock for the hose. you need to grasp the hose and spin it approx 180* until you can see underside of lock as in picture. Then using a screwdriver(or fingers) push the lock tabs in as pictured. remove hose.(this step may be easier for some people with the manifold bolts removed)

Using your 10mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 5 bolts that secure manifold to head.(there are 2 nuts and 1 bolt along top of manifold, and 4 bolts along bottom) Remove manifold from engine bay. it may seem like it wont come out, but it will. rotate top of manifold off of studs and then twist/grunt/jerk. With manifold out you can remove the 4 intake port seals. Be cautious not to damage these, because as long as they arent cut or SWOLLEN you can reuse them. If they are gummy or seem bigger than the spot they fit in youll need new ones. DO NOT SPRAY THESE WITH CARB CLEANER, 2+2, BRAKE KLEEN, ETC>>>>> It will ruin them. just wipe them off with a rag if they are oily or dirty.

Now install the intake seals from the 2.2 onto the 2.4 manifold, install your new TB seal, and install your new crankcase passage seal(this seal is highlighted in pic, and has different colors on each side, it doesnt matter what color/side is facing out) Notice how much more massive the 2.2 manifold is than the 2.4 manifold, its not an illusion, there is also a huge weight difference.


Now the most difficult part of the install, you need to enlarge the hole on the 2.4 manifold
MAP sensor hole to accept your MAP sensor. You need to enlarge the hole by.060" or 1.5mm. the quickest way is probably a 1/2" flap wheel like used for porting. You could obviously do it by hand with a file, or the route I chose(because I was out of flap wheels) was a cordless drill and a 15/32" drill bit. You need to enlarge the hole to a point about 1/2" down into hole. Try not to damaged the small orifice at botom of hole. regardless of you method, be sure to take your time, only enlarge the hole just as much as needed, dont crack the manifold(especially large concern if using a drill GO SLOW WITH DRILL) and make sure you clean ALL debris from manifold. Squirt some parts cleaner from the plenum side out through hole just to be sure its clear.


To install simply reverse the removal procedure with a few exceptions.

When installing the TB You need to remove the TB bolt from the oddly place hole in upper left, and place it into the open location slightly below it, now the bolts are in a regular rectnagle pattern.


When installing the power brake hose it now attaches to large nipple immediately below TB
(the pic below is upside down in relation to how you will view nipple with manifold installed on car. Also note the highlighted area. This is epoxy. I had to epoxy this nipple back on because one of my jackass fellow techs knocked the manifold off my box and this shtt the f*ck across the shop Be careful with manifold its fairly delicate, also pay close attn to the EVAP nipple above the TB


When installing the bolt for the oil dipstick/AC hose support bracket, you are not going to put bolt back in same hole in bracket. The 2.4 manifold doesn have a threadsert there. Youll need to install the bolt in the hole in the bottom of the bracket, below th AC line


ALL BOLTS that were removed get retorqued to 10nM/89inlb. This includes the TB bolts, the intake manifold bolts, the support braket bolt.(the MAP sensor bolt isnt reused)


There arent enough spots on the new 2.4 manifold to resecure all of the harness retainers you removed. the major ones are there, but the ones up top near the coolant hos are missing. Secure harnesses together with zipties, or let them go commando(theres not really anything they can get caught in, and there will be minimal slack.


This install including epoxying the brake nipple fiasco and taking pictures took me 35 minutes. Ive done this 2 or 3(dozen) times before though, So I would plan on a solid hour and a half (or significantly more if you dont have recommended tools)to do this swap

I dont recommend a helper, but an audience may be fun.

[1^up]

just listen to maven